Crab Fat Is The New Butter | 水產百科網

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It’s the best hard-to-find seafood specialty since Brazilian fish ribs[1]: crab butter, better known as tomalley, or “guts and roe.” You won’t see a lot of seafood places serving it, but Anthony Bourdain is a fan, and when you come upon that knowledge, you don’t argue. You just eat it and nod sagely with enlightenment as you chew.

“Bourdain loves it, and every time he comes to town he goes to Oyster Depot and asks for it,” says Melissa Perfit, executive chef at Bar Crudo[2] in San Francisco. She decided she’d discarded enough crab innards for one lifetime and added a shell full of sweet, savory, briny crab roe as a supplement to Bar Crudo’s shellfish platters. Predictably, it’s been a breakaway hit, and once you’ve tried it her way, all other shellfish platters seem oddly naked (even with the decorative seaweed).

“It’s a beautiful thing because it prepares its...